CROSSING WARP

The trade term for those warp ends in lenos, gauzes, etc., which cross from one side to the other of the straight threads.

A leno fabric having an open or cell-like structure, and specially suited for shirtings and underwear. A common style is made 28-in., 120 yards, 32 X 40 per inch, 2/24's 24's, 23-lb. Better cloth is made from super yarns such as 2/40's ground and 2/30's crossing warps. The take-up of the crossing warp is about 70 per cent., thus for 100 yards of cloth 170 yards of warp is used. Mercerised yarn is introduced to give variety. The cloths known as " Ventilette " and " Aertex " are purely cellular fabrics, used for shirtings, underwear, etc. The illustration shows a cellular shirting cloth with a fancy stripe between each bar of cellular weave

Lace was originally a heavy texture more like embroidery and of two kinds, Lacis or "darned netting" and Cutwork. Laces, often worked in gold threads and coloured silks was also called " spiderwork." Lace is purely an English word, derived from the Anglo-Norman lacier, to lace, bind, tie or fasten, etc. The word appears to have been first used in 1519. It is a fabric of open mesh or net formed by crossing and intertwining threads. Lace was originally purely a hand craft, but today it is machine made as well. There are three main classes: - Point lace, pillow lace and machine-made lace. Point Lace - When the term " Point " is applied to a lace fabric it should mean that the lace has been made by the needle with a single line of thread, but it is now given to many machine-made laces. There are numerous laces sold as point laces and each has some feature not possessed by any other, many of these laces are known by the town where they are manufactured. Pillow Lace - These laces are made by intertwining threads on pins fixed in a cushion over a pattern fastened on to the cushion. Many pillow laces are part hand and part machine made such as Honiton, Valenciennes, Irish, etc. Machine-made Laces - There are three principal classes which can be placed (1) warp fabrics; (2) plain nets; (3) Levers' laces. Warp Laces - This is the earliest form of lace produced on a machine which was the invention of the Rev. William Lee in 1589, and was an adaption of the stocking frame. A warp lace is a series of upright threads that twist upon each other to form a fabric. There are no crossing threads. They are made in widths up to 10-in. and are the cheapest laces made. Plain Nets - John Heathcote, the inventor of the bobbin-net machine in 1809, laid the foundation of the machine-made lace trade. These are formed by a diagonal bobbin thread intertwining with the upright warp threads so that when the web is taken off the machine the mesh is honeycomb shaped. Other shapes followed, such as the square mesh. Cotton, silk, mohair and rayon are all used in making plain nets. Standard plain nets are as follows: - Brussels Net - Close mesh, specially selected fine yarns, in widths 36-in. to 80-in. The mesh varies up to 20 holes per inch. Both stiff and soft finish. Mosquito Net - Made in many qualities and closeness of mesh and from 54-in. to 108-in. Cable Net - Made up to 300-in. wide and from coarser yarns than other laces. This fabric is used as the ground fabric for curtains, etc. Bretonne Net - A very fine fabric, close mesh and finer yarns than Brussels, very soft and smooth finish. Point d'esprit - Fabrics with spots at regular distances. The yarns are not as good a quality as Brussels. Finished both soft and stiff. Paris Nets - Very stiff finish, used by the millinery trade for foundation work. Illusion Nets - A star-shaped mesh fabric, very fine yarns, used for veils and evening dress purposes. Silk Mechlins, or Tulles - A net more round than square in mesh and made from fine silk yarns. Malines is a tulle made in Belgium. Chantilly, or Silk Brussels - Similar to Brussels, but made from black dyed silk yarns. Chambray Nets - A finer all silk net than Chantilly. Levers' Lace Fabrics - These are various fancy laces and are produced on the lace machine fitted with a jacquard. Samuel Draper of Nottingham combined the jacquard with the lace machine in 1813. John Levers invented the machine. Varieties of these laces are Cluny laces. Torchons, Maltese lace. All-overs and numerous others.

A cotton cloth for motor tyres devised to eliminate the chafing action of threads crossing each other, as obtains in the " builder " fabric. The cloth is made with strong corded threads for the warp, with as little weft as possible. The picks vary from 4 to 10 per inch. The warp threads are laid parallel and vary from 22 to 25 per inch. The weft is a single end of 21's to 23's with 10 to 16 turns per inch and is only intended to retain the warp threads in parallel order. The warp takes all the strain, and is composed of two-ply threads, counts 23's, 5 X 3 ends twisted right, left, right. The single yarn is 16 to 20 turns, first doubling 5 ends up, 16 to 20 turns, and the finishing twisting 15 ends (5 X 3) is also 16 to 20 turns per inch. These are the " cord tyres " of commerce (see Builder Fabric and Breaker)

Special healds used in the manufacture of gauze and leno fabrics. A doup consists of an ordinary heald termed the " front standard " and a half heald with only one stave termed the " doup heald." The half heald may be at the bottom or the top. In the case of the bottom doup, the twine of the doup heald passes over the eye of the front standard and returns through it. The crossing thread is drawn through the loop so formed, and also through an additional heald termed the back standard. To form the cross-shed the whole of the doup is raised, namely, the front standard and half heald. To form the open shed, i.e., when the crossing thread is on the other side of the standard end, the back standard is lifted, the front standard heald is left down, but the half heald is lifted to allow the warp thread to cross to the other side of the standard warp end (see gauze cloth and design).

Fabrics in which two or more adjacent warp ends or weft picks weave alike, such as 2 & 2, 3 & 3, or 4 & 4, ends and picks. Simple matts of this type can be woven on two shafts with two or more threads in one heald eye, but to prevent ends crossing it is best to have each thread in a separate eye. The cloth known as matt shirting is a popular one for many markets. It is bleached and soft finished. It is made all plain matt or in stripes. A typical make is 33-in. wide, 100 ends and 50 picks per inch, 36's warp, 10's weft, double ends, single picks. The weave illustrated is 12 X 12 and is termed a fancy matt. The cloth has 64 ends and 64 picks per inch, 2/17's T., 10's W. These cloths are allowed to shrink to their full extent, this particular cloth was 36-in. loom state and 33-in. finished. The take-up in length was 10 per cent.

прибо́р м.
device; instrument

A special form of gauze weaving, in which there is a double crossing of the warp ends between each pick so arranged that the crossing spreads are bound by the weft always on the same side of the standard ends.

A combination of plain stripes with bold cords which often differ in colour from the ground. The cords form a very bold solid rib down the piece, and are made by working several thick cords together, with a douping thread crossing from side to side at every pick. This crossing thread is about three times the length of the ordinary warp.

Splendid wools are now being produced in the Cape and Natal. For many years it had been recognised that the climate was very suited to the growth of high-class merino wool and the development of good types is a result of the building up from judicial infusion of better known merino types, and with the support of the South African Government, great progress has been effected. Formerly, much of the Cape merino was shorn twice yearly, and, in fact, shearing was often a matter of degree, according to the circumstance of the grower. Thus, we frequently saw designations as "4 months", "6 months", "8 to 10 months", "10 to 12 months", "12 months", and even "14 months". But of late years this early shearing is diminishing, and thus more valuable combing wools are reaching the world centres. Formerly, much of the Cape merino was unattractive, and low yielding, making it difficult of estimation. Today, we often see magnificent 64/70's warp wools and a yield of 15 per cent to 20 per cent higher than formerly. The bulk of the Cape wools are beautifully fine, soft, and of a very white colour, and the noils from these wools also have a higher value than from most other merino wools. The production has also increased materially within recent years, and the South African contribution is now a valuable one to U.S.A., Great Britain, the Continent and Japan. East African wools are still in their infancy as regards character and amount. But the climate seems to be suitable for crossbred production, and of late years importation of good breeds for crossing and improving the native types lend support to the belief in the future of East Africa as a wool-producing area.

Fabrics having rectangular patterns formed by crossing a striped warp with weft threads coloured in a somewhat similar order. Box looms are required, as each colour of weft requires a separate shuttle. The illustration gives the popular check designs

A term used in textile manufacture signifying the crossing under and over of the warp and weft threads in a fabric.